When Crappies Come Hard

What you should do if the spring fishing blitz fizzles.

North to South, panfish fans await the annual spring extravaganza—when crappies invade the shallows. Indeed, the season’s finest fishing occurs when ravenous slabs storm the beaches. Unfortunately, just the opposite can be true when fishing pressure, foul weather or other detrimental factors turn skinny-water nirvana into paradise lost.

Without a solid Plan B, anglers targeting the spring blitz come home empty-handed when something shatters the shallow pre-spawn pattern. Thankfully, putting together successful backup strategies isn’t rocket science when you match a few biological basics with the following tough-bite tactics. Consider this your personal guide to cracking the code when crappies come hard.

Blitz Biology
Springtime crappie behavior—including the shallow-water migration—hinges on basic biology that begs review if we’re to properly prepare for a hot bite to sour. And it all starts when longer days and the first warm fronts begin cracking winter’s armor. Crappies holding in deep wintering grounds become more active, and soon begin shifting toward the spring range. Scenarios may vary by lake and latitude, but the concept is the same across much of crappie country.

In early spring, fish flock to fast-warming areas such as dark-bottomed bays, coves and canals, where rapidly rising water temperatures jump-start the food chain. While many anglers associate this activity with the fish’s spawning cycle, it’s really about feeding, not procreation. The fish are hungry after a long winter, looking to rebuild energy reserves burned during the lean season—and abundant baitfish such as threadfin shad and small minnows offer easy meals.

The initial migration typically begins when main-lake water temperatures rise into the 40-degree range. Crappies holding in deep water, often associated with fertile basins, creek channels, stump fields and other winter haunts, start moving toward the feeding grounds.

Often, the fish follow predictable routes along the way, tracing old channels or other structural thoroughfares. And they may pause when they encounter such sweet spots as a forage-rich flat, stakebed or stump-laden channel bend. Savvy anglers understand this and familiarize themselves with such rest areas, since they’re solid producers as waves of incoming crappies pass through during the migration. But they’re also worth checking when harsh conditions force feeding fish out of shallow water.

As the migration nears the bank, a few days of warm, stable weather triggers forays into warm, forage-rich shallows. Here, a variety of tactics take fish, notably float-based presentations dangling everything from tinsel jigs to live bait and soft plastics. Under the right conditions, it’s easy fishing. Often, the biggest concern is not spooking slabs that can get jittery in skinny water.

Foul weather, such as a cold front accompanied by cold rain, pushes the fish out of the shallows. Warm, stable trends lure them back in. This back-and-forth continues as spring settles in, with the retreats generally getting shorter as the water warms up. Temperatures rising into the 50s triggers the spawning instinct.

Since crappies prefer a moderately firm bottom for spawning, the muck-bottomed early feeding grounds often don’t hold suitable habitat, and the fish start shifting toward nesting areas. In the North, a classic example is crappies moving from stands of wild Rice that yield a baitfish buffet, into bulrush beds, which offer harder bottom ideal for nesting. Spawning activity begins when the water reaches 60 degrees and maxes out at 68 to 72 degrees, after which the fish finally abandon the shallows for good.

Southern Strategies
Veteran crappie guide Barry Morrow cut his teeth on Missouri’s Truman Lake, and currently caters to clients on the crappie-rich waters of Lake Eufaula in Oklahoma. Both of these storied fisheries have taught him much about spring crappie behavior.

“In Oklahoma, our first solid warm-up comes as early as the second or third week of February, but the shallow bite lasts into April and early May,” he says. “The fish begin moving in from deeper water to feed, and the bite can be good in two to three feet of water when the weather stays consistent. When cold fronts hit, though, the fish move out to depths of nine to 12 feet.”

To find them, Morrow idles over potential drop zones with a sharp eye on his sonar. Top search areas include the upper edges of creek channel drops, especially where brush or stumps off er cover. “The fish typically suspend close to bottom,” he says, “though in extreme conditions they may be tighter.” Under such conditions, finesse is key. “When the bite’s tough, fish ultra-slow,” he cautions. “Casting is a disadvantage in this situation. I tightline, using the trolling motor to move slowly along the structure.”

In the direst of situations, the fish tuck tight to rock piles or boulders. Morrow reverts to his winter game, which entails fishing a lone leadhead and holding the boat still—deadsticking the jig in a near-motionless presentation. “Then, you may wait three to five minutes to get bit,” he says.

He doesn’t skimp on the tackle, however, believing a heavy jig aids in the detection of subtle strikes. To that end, he ties on a 1/8- to 1/4-ounce leadhead tipped with a 2-inch Lindy Watsit body—choosing the “fat” version for bulkier profile. “I always use a loop knot to attach the jig,” he says, noting that the loop knot allows the jig to assume a head-up profile, which simulates a dying shad.

In most typical tough bites, however, he puts the odds in his favor with two jigs on the line—a 1/16 ouncer tied 12 to 14 inches above an 1/8-ounce leadhead on 8- to 10-pound mono. He favors the bug-eyed look of a Lindy Jig, tipped with a soft plastic. Most often he opts for a Watsit, Fuzz-E-Grub or the multi-tentacle Yum Panfish Wooly Bee.

Jig head and body colors vary according to water clarity, depth and light penetration, as well as the lake’s forage base. Morrow experiments with a wide palette of patterns, but says a brown-and-orange body matched with a black head is proven combination during a tough bite. A pink or chartreuse body on a black head can be likewise lethal. “Contrasting the head and body colors is critical,” he stresses.

The two-jig presentation is only slightly more animated than the single option. “Here, too, you’re fishing close to bottom, very slowly raising and lowering the jigs,” he says. “I give them a slow, soft twitch with my hand, moving the jig about two inches. If the fish are especially lethargic, I bounce the jig on bottom, using slow, two- to three-inch lifts.”

Bites are light. “Very light,” he says, “and when you feel a tick, the fish has sucked in the jig and is already trying to spit it out,” he says. “You have to set the second you feel it. Do it right, and the hook will be buried in the roof of the crappie’s mouth.” To aid detecting such subtle takes, Morrow favors long rods—think 9 to 11 footers—with ample backbone. The combination offers both sensitivity and the beef to make a quick, solid hookset. “Compare a hickory stick with a willow limb, and tell me which is more sensitive, and better able to set a hook hard and fast?” he asks.

When he can, Morrow fishes two rods at a time, each rigged with a pair of jigs. “This allows me to cover more water,” he says, “but more importantly, I can cover two different depths simultaneously. This can be very important when the fi sh are moving up or down a breakline.”

Which brings up another great point. Spring crappies are mobile. Fish holding a foot off bottom in 14 feet of water in the morning may move shallower during a warm day in stable weather. Conversely, brutal conditions push crappies deeper.

Northern Exposure
Several states to the north, veteran guide and NAFC friend Brian “Bro” Brosdahl is also accustomed to the here-today, gone-tomorrow nature of springtime crappies. And, like Morrow, he’s developed a battle-hardened game plan to deal with it.

“When a cold front pushes fish out of the classic bays where they’re feeding on minnows and insects, I target the most well-defined holding areas in front of them,” he says. “Creek mouths and harbor mouths are great examples, because they funnel fleeing fish into small areas that are easy to pick apart.” In lieu of such structure, he opts for more subtle variances along the first drop-off off shore. “Sometimes it looks like the shoreline break goes on forever, but if you look, there’s usually an unusual feature such as vegetation, timber or rocks that fish can snuggle up to during a cold front,” he explains.

Like Morrow, Brosdahl uses sonar to locate sulking crappies, adding that side-scanning is a great tool for marking fish tucked tight to cover or bottom. “Crappies that are tough to spot with regular sonar show up like leaves on side-imaging screen,” he says. “Underwater cameras are a great help, too. And if you turn on the infrared light while you’re searching, it flashes off the fish’s reflecting sides.”

Brosdahl’s presentation hinges on finesse. “Tiny plastics with paddletails or wiggly legs are ideal because even when you try to hold them still, they have just enough action to entice post-front fish into biting,” he says. He pairs these fidgety offerings with dainty jig heads such as Northland’s Bro Bug or Jiggle Bug, both of which have an insect-like appearance that can catch the eye of even the moodiest crappie.

Again, he chooses colors that contrast with the bodies whenever possible. Live bait is another top option. “A small crappie minnow, hooked just under the dorsal on a size 6 or 8 Aberdeen hook, is hard to beat. I add a small plastic bead above the hook for added attraction, and weight the rig with a single, colored split shot.”

The rig can be tightlined or fished under a float. The latter is a great approach when you find a cluster of crappies, say, tucked into a small pocket of open water in a rice bed. But he also uses a float when searching structure. “Move the minnow slowly, with a few turns of the reel handle, then pause 10 seconds, and reel again,” he says.

At times going with a bit more flash and movement is the answer to cracking tough crappies. Th at’s when Brosdahl opts for a tinsel-tail Gypsi Jig, tipped with a waxworm, fi shed under a float with a slow, slow hand. “Cast and let the rig sit for a few seconds, then give it a quick pop to hop the bait,” he says. “Let it sit from three to 10 seconds before giving it another pop, and repeat the process.” When the float signals a strike, he hesitates just long enough for the fish to take the bait, then executes a sweeping hookset.

In the end, finding and catching tough-bite spring crappies entails a bit of sleuthing—as you backtrack along migration waypoints—and a whole lot of patience, persistence and finesse. Put it all together, though, and the rewards are fine fishing on those challenging days when fickle crappies send other anglers packing.

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